Written on 30/11/2020
What's wrong with sulfites?
For the past decade, the new battle among wine lovers has been over sulfur (or sulfites, it's the same thing). There are the pros, the antis, and the partisans of "as long as it's good". Once a certain dose of sulfur is exceeded, it has even become mandatory to specify on the label that the wine contains SO2. But why do we add sulfur to wine that hasn't asked for it, and what do we blame it for?
Sulfur: antimicrobial and antioxidant
The use of sulfur in winemaking is nothing new. The first official decree authorizing its use dates back to 1487, in Prussia. It gave winegrowers the right to burn sulfurous wood in barrels to disinfect them. Although this method is still used today (known as "méchage"), sulfur is now mainly used during fermentation and to stabilize the wine at bottling. In fact, it's a formidable antioxidant that can save entire harvests and a few dinners here and there.
This is one of the most common uses of sulfur, and one that we learn about during our oenological training courses.
However, it's in making wine that we learn that this sulfur, an ally in small doses, can prove to be an enemy when abused.
What's wrong with sulfur?
What anti-sulfites most often say is that sulfur changes the taste (and not for the better) and that it gives us headaches, whereas natural wines protect us from them.
It's true that sulphur intolerance is quite common, and that too much sulphur hinders the wine's aromas from being fully expressed. Winemakers who are jealous of their terroirs quickly become frustrated, and increasingly reduce the amount of sulfur added to their production. It's worth noting that white wines are subject to the most SO2 additions, as they don't produce any naturally during ripening.
Nothing too much
In conclusion, sulphur helps to preserve wine, but overuse can be dangerous for the consumer's health. The trend is to reduce the doses used, or even to avoid sulfur at all stages of production. As is often the case, it's a question of dosage, know-how and taste!
